So the local economy is supposedly tanking, companies are downsizing … and yet, life is GOOD when you can spend an afternoon sipping wine and tasting great cheeses of all shapes, textures, flavors and colors.

On Sunday, I checked out the final day of the first annual American Cheesemaker Awards gathering, a literal nirvana for foodies at the Fairmont Hotel in Newport Beach.

Thursday through Sunday, Nov. 15-18, the epicurean event brought together top local and national chefs, taste experts and purveyors, and 25 cheesemakers from California, Idaho, Indiana, New York, Oregon, Utah, Vermont, Washington and Wisconsin showing off their excellent artisanal cheeses.

There was an official judging and awards dinner, and a series of “Cheese Academy” classes, open to the public, where the best of Orange County’s taste experts, like Napa Rose executive chef Andrew Sutton, Sapphire Pantry cheese monger Starr Cornwall and The Island Hotel’s executive chef Bill Bracken, offered tips and lessons on cooking with cheese and pairing it with other foods and wine.

But the ultimate reason to be there was to TASTE some 100 of these amazing cheeses. What an incredible feeling to pick up a wine glass, a small plate and napkin, and then walk into a huge tent to see table after table of cheddar, mozzarella, goat cheese, plus perfect pairing goodies from Bristol Farms’ bounty, from fig spread to olives to truffle butter (sinfully indulgent!).

My top discoveries:
1. Fiscalini Farmstead cheese from Modesto: specifically, the nutty, buttery, perfect San Joaquin Gold, which was “intended to be a fontina but developed into a unique cheese” as their literature put it; and the Vintage Bandaged Cheddar, a classic English style, aged 18 months for a lovely sharp taste that’s smooth on the finish.
I was especially enamored of cheesemaker Mariano Gonzalez, who took me over to a larger display of the bandage-wrapped cheddar and proudly explained that every day for two months, he turns the wrapped cheese upside down to stabilize the moisture and promote even growth of mold to create the rind underneath the cloth. “This is my baby,” Mariano said with a smile.
The “baby” actually loses weight as it ages and firms up, dropping from 60 pounds to about 55 pounds by the end of the 18 months.
Both cheeses won American Cheesemaker Awards, the San Joaquin Gold for “Best Hard Cow’s Milk Cheese,” the Vintage Bandaged for “Best Firm Cow’s Milk Cheese.”

2. Beecher’s cheese (pictured in the lead photo) is handmade at Pike Place Market in Seattle, one of my favorite places. Beecher’s signature Flagship (billed as “Wine’s best friend”) won the “Best Semi Hard Cow’s Milk Cheese” award. It’s hearty, nutty and would taste great in an omelette or simply with some crusty bread.

3. The Aged Cardona and Cocoa Cardona (aged and rubbed with that rich dark powder), goat cheeses from 105-year-old Carr Valley Cheese in Wisconsin. These are firmer cheeses, aged to taste closer to cheddar than the fresh Chevre usually associated with goat’s milk.

4. Grill cheese directly on a non-stick skillet for a mouth-watering treat — especially if it’s the creamy, mild but flavorful Jersey cow cheddar from the Ballard Family’s Idaho dairy. Steve Ballard showed us how simple it is, and Stacie served up the grilled pieces dipped in lemon, balsamic vinegar and other tasteful accompaniments.

The best news: you can find all of the above cheeses at Bristol Farms (in fact, apparently Carr Valley and Ballard inked deals with the gourmet grocery during the event).

And learning that there are domestic cheesemakers that can compete with the Europeans made me proud to be an American.

With Azmin Ghahreman, the enthusiastic, brilliant chef-owner of Sapphire Laguna & Pantry leading this cheese fest as event chairman, I knew the quality would be nothing but top-notch. But it was even better than expected, and many of the cheesemakers confirmed this, saying they didn’t know what to expect and ultimately were impressed with the attention to detail and quality of participants and crowd.

I’d say the only thing that verged on “cheesy” in its negative connotation were these cheese carvings:

… though, there definitely is some impressive craftsmanship, especially in the turkey!

For more on the American Cheesemaker Awards, including a full list of winners, go to the event web site.

For more on cheese and the best local cheese shops, check out this Party Gal column.

For the Orange County Register’s Monday news story on the event, click here.

Posted in: Events • Food • Stuff We Did • What we're into... |

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